June 30, 2013 – Fagan’s Cross/Hana Walking Trail
The long day ended with our return to Hana and a walk up to Fagan’s Cross, a local landmark placed by one of the area’s earliest cattle ranchers atop a prominent hill overlooking the town and serviced by a trailhead that also serves a community walking trail. It looked like we could combine the two paths to form a 5-mile out-and-back hike, so off we went at about 5:30pm. The trailhead abuts a hotel parking lot that was filling up with patrons either checking in or perhaps arriving for dinner – we parked at the back of the crowded lot and started heading up the steep but paved trail. The asphalt path to the cross probably sees use for special Sunday services as well as for weddings and such, and it winds north and west away from the town, curling around the back side of the hill and reaching the cross from the west. Fagan’s Cross itself is quite a structure, appearing to be constructed of hewn lava rock and mortar and standing about 20′ high – raised on a dais at the east end of a large square, it is faced with a paved courtyard separated from the asphalt path by a steel cattle guard to keep wandering animals out. The view of Hana Bay was beautiful from here, as were the vistas west and south – a companion hill blocked most views to the north. After cooling off in the gentle breeze for a few minutes, we headed back down to the junction with the walking trail we had passed about halfway up the hill. Here, a grassy path headed due south, contouring its way along the rolling hillside – our map indicated it ran all the way to the Koki Beach cinder cone, although we really didn’t intend to follow it all the way there. Still, the walking was so easy and the scenery so nice that we simply kept walking, first through grassy meadows and then through a short wooded section that was especially pretty. Twice, we flushed nene from their hidden nests in the grass – besides startling the heck out of us, both birds moved surprisingly fast for their size and shape, flying low over the meadow and honking loudly the whole way. After trending generally southward, the trail began to curl east and then south again around a hillock, and we could see the trail’s end at a gate not far from the Hana road near the turnoff for Koki Beach. We had seen the sky start to redden over the mountains to the west as we meandered south, but now, just as we got to the gate, the sunset started to really come alive. We stood there at the gate for about 20 minutes as the sky transformed before our eyes – a corona’s halo first began to form above the hilltops, followed by long sunny streaks of sunlight through the clouds. First pinks, the oranges, then deep reds – it was one of the best treats of the whole day. We realized it was getting darker by the minute, and both of us brought only our prescription sunglasses – we both tried to walk without them as we headed back, each comically stumbling here and there with very limited depth perception, and the sunglasses went back on as a safety precaution more than anything. As we returned northward, the sky continued to change by the minute – every time we looked up, it was different. By 7:30, we had returned to the car and driven the short distance back to our hotel – we were starving, and the simple dinner of sauteed pineapple sausages and potatoes hit the spot. We were both so glad we had chosen to stay in Hana for the night – there was too much to see in this area to do the trip justice in one day.